Old Car Exterior Parts

Restoring Your Classic Car - Stripping and Metal Repair

By Dave Kite

If you are keeping up with my restoration series of articles then you know it is time to talk about stripping the paint and metal repair. You should start with the doors, hood, and deck (trunk) lid since these should already be off the car. I will describe to you the way I have been doing the stripping process but just be aware that there are many different ways to get the same results.

I am writing these articles as a hands on guide so I will tell you how to do it by hand. There are many other options out there like soda blasting and dipping which all have their pros and cons. Stay away from sand blasting because there is a chance that enough heat will build up to warp the panels.

Ok lets get started, you will need a body stand, some horses, or something to put the parts on. You will also need the stripper (Mar-Hyde Tal-strip II aircraft coating remover), some chip brushes, rubber gloves, lacquer thinner, a razor blade scraper, masking tape, a tarp, Mar-hyde One Step Rust Converter Primer Sealer, and a throw away container to put the stripper in.

Lay down the tarp under your stands and place the part you are stripping securely on the stands. There are many strippers out there some are "green" some are not. I use Mar-Hyde Tal-strip II aircraft coating remover, it is not a "green" product but I have yet to find something that works better. Follow the directions on the container and you will be fine.

So your hood (or other part) is ready to go, pour some stripper into a throw away container and start brushing it on the panel in one direction only. Do not go back over your brush stroke in the opposite direction. Go in one direction, I usually go left to right.

Don't be afraid to load your brush up and lay it down thick. Once the panel is coated you will see the paint start to bubble, you have to start scraping as it bubbles, if you wait too long it will dry up. Once your paint starts to bubble get your scraper and go to work. Be careful not to gouge the panel with the razor blade, if you start scraping while the panel is still wet the remover will act as a lubricant for the scraper. Spots like the window openings at the tops of the doors are a good place to mask with tape so the stripper does not run down into the door.

You will most likely need a few applications to get all the paint off. Once you are done stripping the paint wipe the entire panel down with thinner to remove excess stripper. Now you will be able to see all the bad news! All the dings, holes, dents and probably a ton of filler in some spots.

Don't panic almost everything is fixable but sometimes it is easier to get a better panel, now is the time to make that decision. Once the panel is stripped and whipped down and before any metal repairs are made you need to DA it (DA - Dual action sander) to get all the rust paint and gunk off the panel. Sand it with an 80 grit disc. I can't stress enough the importance of getting every ounce of crud off the exterior of the panels. As far as the interior of the panels go, you should not have to go nuts with them because they will have undercoating or pads on them. Weld up any small holes you are not going to be used and grind them flush.

Make patches for any major rust and weld them in. make sure you cut out all the rust or it will come back. There is a great product I have used in places that are starting to rust, it is called mar-hyde one step. You just wire brush off the loose rust and then coat it with the rust converter and the rust turns to a black primer that you can fill or paint over in 24 hours.

I have used many "rust converter" products but this is the only one that does not seem to weaken the metal like navel jelly does. Trust me I know since I sheared off a leaf spring mount from the frame of my jeep while off road and it was because I sprayed them down with navel jelly a few times.

Once the panel is stripped and fixed you are going to want to get it in epoxy primer before the rust starts. I have used a few different epoxy primers and self etching primers and most do what they are supposed to do just don't skimp and go with the "k-mart" brand here. PPG makes a real good one as do some of the other major brands.

Read the can for the mixing instructions and follow them to a T. Spray the panel, I usually give about 3 coats. If you follow these instructions for the entire car you will be fine. Remember to read all labels for instructions and disposal information and follow them, take your time and do it right.

Next time we will start the body work......Fun, fun, fun. Trust me, the body work part stinks but what you have done up to now and what you do with the body work will determine how good or bad your car looks at the end. So NO SHORT CUTS.

Feel free to contact me with any questions you might have This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

Here are some good resources for the products mentioned. These are the same places I get my supplies from. · eastwood co. - eastwoodco.com · Auto body toolmart - autobodytoolmart.com

Other techniques not mentioned here but worth researching: · Metal bumping · Metal shrinking · Metal stretching · Metal shaping

Dave Kite - Restoration Specialist 20 plus years of auto repair and restoration experiance. Show and museum quality cars to daily drivers. Owner of DWK Auto Restoration and Classic Auto Photography http://journal.RCN.net/kite_family/

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